Belfast
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Belfast, “Béal Feirste” in Irish, is the capital of Northern Ireland. This port city is most famous for being the birthplace of the Titanic, but is also known for its ongoing, conflictual religious strife. It’s a great starting point for a scenic trip up the coastline to see the Giant’s Causeway or to journey down into Dublin to spend time in other parts on the island of Ireland.
Travel tip #1: Belfast’s interesting and very real religious strife makes the subject of religion a touchy subject. It’s best to avoid conversations surrounding religion, especially if you’re unsure who you’re speaking with or where you are within the city.
Places of Interest
Titanic Museum: This museum is really cool if you like history! It leads you through Belfast’s industrial revolution, which aids in understanding the construction of the Titanic. I recommend paying the extra money (2-3 GBP) for the audio guide because it provided more information and photos to supplement the museum displays. Be sure to book your tickets ahead of time, as they do sell out.
SS Nomadic: This ship used to be part of the White Star Line, the same as Titanic, and is now on display in Belfast’s Titanic Quarter. She was built to transfer passengers and mail to and from RMS Olympic and RMS Titanic. Entrance to the SS Nomadic is included with your Titanic Museum ticket.
Ulster Museum: Art, history, and nature are all included in this museum. A fairly impressive collection of different artifacts and pieces are on display, which trace Irish history to the present day. There are multiple floors and you could easily spend 2-3 hours here if you view all of the displays.
IRA Museum: The Irish Republican Army Museum, also known as the Eileen Hickey Irish Republican History Museum, was established to educate others about the IRA and Irish history. Relatively small, this is more of a pit-stop rather than a place to plan your day around.
Peace Wall: There are over 40 peace walls throughout Belfast, and more in other cities in Northern Ireland. These walls were erected to keep the peace between communities and still stand to this day. Some of the walls are over 20 feet tall. Although it’s been more than 20 years since the Peace Agreement was signed, this wall and the others are a reminder of the conflictual history that still exists today.
St. Anne’s Cathedral: The focal point of Cathedral Quarter, an area of Belfast lined with restaurants, shops, and pub. This beautiful building is a Church of Ireland that continues to serve the community as a place of worship. Worth visiting if you like architecture.
St. George’s Market: This is the last surviving Victorian-covered market in Belfast. The indoor market has various vendors selling food stuffs, prepared meals, crafts, and art, which is only open select hours on weekends (Friday through Sunday). Go here to try some local food favorites, like the Belfast Bap as well as different types of curries.
Crumlin Road Goal: Known as Europe’s Alcatraz, this was a previous jail which closed in 1996. You can take tours of the jail, pop-in for live music events, and also book paranormal activity-like tours. There is also a bar and grill on-site.
Octopus Garden: A lovely vintage, thrift, and records store. They have a really good selection of clothes, including great quality jeans. Prices are fair, but they do have 50% off sales from time to time.
Born and Bred: A store that features local artists and their work! In addition, Born and Bred houses cute Belfast and Northern Ireland-themed goods. Great place to stop by for postcards, mugs, and other souvenirs if you’re into that kind of stuff.
Travel tip #2: Taking a Black Taxi Tour is a must while in Belfast! You’ll learn about the Troubles and be taken around to different parts of the city to see the various murals as well as the Peace Wall, amongst other sights. A local at a pub tipped me off to a lovely man named Brian who gave an absolutely terrific tour! Companies can be found on Trip Advisor, but ask around before opting to the internet, as locals tend to have a personal favorite. Tours are usually 1.5-2 hours in length and include pick-up and drop-off, everything totaling between 40-50 GBP (on average).
Food and Drink
Belfast Bap: This iconic breakfast sandwich is a heart attack on a roll. The roll–a bap–is crusty, white bread. It’s then sliced in half and jammed-packed with all Irish breakfast fillings: bacon, sausage, hashbrowns, black pudding, eggs… something you definitely have to attempt to eat (they’re monstrous in size!) while in Belfast.
Ulster Fry: Similar to an Irish breakfast, but an Ulster Fry typically includes both soda bread and potato bread. It’s incredibly fillings and greasy. However, you must try this breakfast plate if you’re visiting the city. I recommend splitting a plate between two people if possible.
Established Coffee: Located in Cathedral Quarter, this spacious industrial cafe and coffee shop is quite busy no matter the day or time you stop by. Other than making phenomenal coffee drinks, cocoas, and teas, they have a small menu of food things. There’s plenty of seating, too.
Maggie May’s Belfast Cafe: There are a couple locations throughout Belfast, all which serve basic diner-like food, drinks, and desserts. A good place to go if you’re not looking to spend too much on a simple brunch, or if you’re trying to sample an Ulster Fry. They’re known for their milkshakes!
The Toast Office: Come here for excellent grilled cheese sandwiches and other types of toasties. They use Northern Irish ingredients as often as possible to give their food a local taste.
Buba: A trendy Mediterranean and Middle Eastern style restaurant in Saint Anne’s Square. They have several vegetarian options and also serve great cocktails. This is a good place to go with a few friends so you can sample multiple plates, as sharing is recommended. Really cute decor, as well.
Dumpling Library: Also located in Saint Anne’s Square, this hip Pan-Asian restaurant has a variety of different asian choices on its menu. Ranging from dumplings to noodles to soups, nearly everyone can find something to enjoy here.
Mourne Seafood Bar: This place is amazing! They are known for their oyster bar. The seafood is incredibly fresh and delicious. What more could you want? It is quite popular amongst locals and visitors alike, so booking online at least two weeks in advance (especially for peak times) is recommended.
Pubs
- The Points – live Irish music every night; more of a younger crowd, but very enjoyable.
- The Thirsty Goat – beautiful spot in Cathedral Quarter; small and more intimate.
- Harp Bar – larger pub; good for bigger groups.
- The Dirty Onion & Yardbird – Belfast’s oldest building; bar that serves rotisserie chicken.
- Duke of York – vintage decor and nice whiskey selection; located in Commercial Quarter.
- Bittle’s Bar – in the flatiron building; small and cozy; very local.
- Love and Death Bar – in the shopping area; trendy and hip; good cocktails.
Travel tip #3: There are several foods that Northern Ireland is known for–Yellow Man Candy, the Belfast Bap, champ–all should definitely be tried when in the city. Yellow Man Candy was not my favorite, so maybe steer clear of that!
Transportation and Accommodation
Belfast is fairly walkable and easy to navigate. Most places of interest, restaurants, cafes, and pubs are centrally located, making it a nice city to visit. It’s also very safe, even at night. If you choose to not walk or are physically unable to do so, the bus system is fairly reliable and costs 2-3 GBP one-way. You will need coins to pay for the bus if you don’t have a transportation card. Taxis are also a convenient method of transportation if you’re only visiting for a few days.
If you’re traveling from Dublin, you can either book a bus or train. The bus will drop you off or pick you up near the Europa Hotel, which is near the middle to the city center. This is the most convenient way to get to Belfast from Dublin if you do not have a personal vehicle and takes about 2 hours or so. Alternatively, you can take the train from Lanyon Station in Belfast to Connelly Station in Dublin. Lanyon Station and Connelly Station are within the cities, but are not as convenient as the bus if you’re using public transportation.
There are various accommodation options in Belfast, including the famed Europa Hotel–the most bombed hotel in Europe. Even though I did not stay at this hotel while in Belfast, I passed it many times and it looked lovely. Rather than opting for a hotel as a solo traveller, I chose to stay at Vagabonds Hostel. This place was good for the price and was great for meeting other travelers.
Climate
The climate of Belfast mild throughout the year. However, winters can be quite cold and rainy winters while summers are also relatively rainy and don’t see temperatures higher than 15°C/60°F. It’s very rare for the city to see snow, even in the coldest month of winter (January). As the weather is mostly unpredictable and it rains throughout the year, there is no “best” time to visit Belfast. Rather, you should go prepared with waterproof attire and hope for the best! The city does have sunny, clear days–don’t worry too much.
