Cartagena de Indias, also known as Cartagena, is a beautiful city on the shores of the Caribbean Sea in the South American country of Colombia. Here, the intersectionality of Caribbean culture, the region’s racial diversity, and a history of longstanding colonial influence intertwines with Colombian nightlife, cultural festivals, and gorgeous natural scenery. You’ll also find stunning islands and beaches with warm, salty water in close proximity to the city, making for the perfect tropical escape.

Travel tip #1: Read “One Hundred Years of Solitude” by Gabriel García Márquez before traveling to Colombia, especially if you are traveling to Cartagena. To many, Cartagena is synonymous with the famous Colombian author because lived and drew inspiration there when he worked as a newspaperman in the late 1940s, in which his reporting highlighted the magical undercurrents of the country’s Caribbean coast. This novel will help to understand Caribbean-Colombian magic and mysticism that’s omnipresent throughout the city.

Places of Interest

Walled City: Cartagena’s Walled City, also known as Las Murallas, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that surrounds the historic center of the city. Stone walls separate this area from other parts of the city, which are complemented by fortifications and bastions along the coast as well as lookout points with views of the Caribbean Sea. The walls are a central part of the city’s identity.

• Walls of Cartagena: One of the most well-preserved and complete colonial fortifications in South America, and one of the best walled cities in the world. 
• Puerta del Reloj: This is the main city gate of the historic center of Cartagena and the original entrance of the fortified city.
• Plaza de la Aduana: The largest and oldest square in the Old Town.
• Plaza de Santa Teresa: Considered to be one of the most beautiful squares in the city.
• Plaza de Santo Domingo: Bustling plaza with outdoor restaurants, bars, vendors, and a sculpture by Fernando Botero, the famous Colombian artist and sculptor.
• Plaza de Bolívar: Formerly the Plaza de Inquisición, this plaza is surrounded by some of the city’s most elegant balconied colonial buildings.
• Catedral de Santa Catalina de Alejandria: This is the episcopal see of the Archbishop of Cartagena de Indias, one of the oldest episcopal sees in the Americas. The cathedral was designed by Simón González and modeled after basilicas in Andalusia and the Canary Islands.
• Las Bóvedas: A structure in the Old City that is attached to the walls. The Caribbean Sea is visible from the top of the structure. 
• Museo de Cartagena Indios: Small museum focused on the history of Cartagena; be prepared for a Spanish-heavy walk-through.

Getsemaní: Getsemaní is a trendy neighborhood in Cartagena that is located outside of the Walled City. It’s known for its vibrant arts scene, nightlife, and cultural identity that often centers around celebrating Afro-Colombian culture. The bohemian-vibe complements the area’s colorful streets and hip restaurants. There are fewer places of interest here compared to the Walled City, but I preferred spending time in this neighborhood.

• Calle 29: Calle 29 is an excellent starting point for a self-guided walking tour of Getsemaní’s art scene.
• Callejón Angosto/Calle de las Sombrillas: Formerly known as Callejón Angosto (Narrow Alley), this is one of the narrowest streets in Getsemaní. Colorful umbrellas now line the alleyway from overhead.
• Plaza de la Trinidad: Small urban square known for its food sellers, plus colorful buildings and murals in surrounding streets. Here, you will more than likely have the opportunity to meet the famous palenqueras of Colombia.

Dancing & Dance Clubs

• Cafe Havana
• Salsa Show 1968
• Quiebra-Canto
• Donde Fidel
• Crazy Salsa 

Bazurto Market: This is a local-centric market located outside of the Walled City. I recommend hiring a local guide to take you through and around the area, as it can be a bit overwhelming to navigate on your own–the inside is maze-like and bustling! Definitely get lunch here in the hot food section, as it is known for having some delicious options.

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas: The Castillo San Felipe de Barajas is a fortress that was built in 1536 on the Hill of San Lázar, which is the highest point in Cartagena. You can wander through the tunnels of the San Felipe de Barajas Castle and take guided tours.

La Serrezuela: La Serrezuela is a modern, high-end mall that was originally built in 1893 and used to be the central theatre and bull-fighting stadium. Overtime, the building deteriorated and the building was abandoned. It is now a place to walk, shop, and eat. Be sure to catch the water and light show in the impressive wooden stadium!

Travel tip #2: The two main areas where tourists typically stay and frequent are the Walled City and Getsemani. Once you cross over Laguna de San Lázaro, the general atmosphere changes to a more local-vibe with fewer tourists and tourist-serving establishments.

Food & Drink

Cafe del Mural: The cafe owner, David, is a coffee entrepreneur who comes from a family of coffee growers. This cafe is a combination of an experimental coffee lab and shop. Not only is the coffee amazing, but the artsy and welcoming vibes are definitely not to be missed while in Cartagena.

Libertario Coffee Roasters: Good coffee with good intentions. 3% of their sales are allocated to transforming coffee crops towards regenerative agriculture that restores biodiversity, soil health, and the resilience of farming families. These funds allow for the promotion of such ideologies on small-scale coffee farms in Colombia to help achieve the ultimate goal of restoring the long-term health of communities, ecosystems, and the planet.

Ábaco Libros y Cafe: Bookstore + coffee shop = perfection! Ábaco has a great selection of mainstream and specialty publications, including many Colombian authors, that line its tall walls. A wonderful place to stop in Old Town to pick up local literature as a souvenir.

Epoca Cafe Bar: With locations in Cartagena and Medellin, this espresso bar and restaurant has gained much popularity for their excellent coffee. Their brunch menu is more Western-influenced, but very fresh and tasty. It can get busy here during peak hours, so be prepared to wait.

La Mulata: A must for authentic Caribbean cuisine while in Cartagena! The dishes are beautifully presented and are equally backed in flavor by their home-cooked origins. I recommend ordering one of their fresh fruit juices to drink (the limonada de coco is amazing) and be sure to get the coconut rice with your meal. They also provide a complimentary bowl of sancocho de pescado, a tasty traditional fish soup, before your meal.

La Laguna Azul: La Laguna Azul is a small, local hole-in-the-wall that serves amazing ceviche for an affordable price. Their seafood is very fresh and of great quality. Enjoy your meals in their small outdoor seating area. Cash is recommended.

Salón Tropical Cartagena: Salón Tropical blends Colombian regional flavors with authenticity and style. Their menu is not only fresh but incredibly delicious–try any of their seafood dishes, as they will not disappoint visually or taste-wise. They have live Cuban music in this beautiful Caribbean bistro that can be enjoyed whilst sitting in their garden, as well. Reservation recommended on weekends.

Restaurante Celele: Vibrant dishes such as Caribbean flower salad with pickled cashews and cane flower vinaigrette and squid with mussels in a coastal escabeche line the à la carte menu at this Caribbean-Colombian restaurant. Celele also offers a 10-course tasting menu that explores the diversity of the Caribbean coast. I recommend going with a couple people to share more plates and to sample a wider variety of regional craft beers, cocktails made with Colombian fruits, as well as wines. Reservation recommended.

Colombitalia Arepas: Very good Colombian arepas with a large selection of stuffing options. From traditional cheese to more complex “Italian” arepas, there are many to choose from for a really low price. They’re open late, which is great for a late-night snack after bar hopping.

La Paletteria: Beat the Cartagena heat with an ice pop or ice cream bar. This shop is located in the historic center of the city and is easy to find. They have traditional Colombian flavors like passionfruit as well as fun flavors like coffee.

El Arsenal: The Rum Box: Excellent cocktails and also a place to partake in a rum and chocolate tasting. Tastings last around 1 hour and 45 minutes, which typically includes 8 different rums paired with some sweet and savory treats.

Cafe Del Mar: Cafe del Mar is located on top of the Baluarte de Santo Domingo, boasting gorgeous views of the sea and the cityscape while enjoying a meal. A wonderful spot for sunset snacks and drinks. Outdoor seating only.

Alquímico: A multi-story bar with a rooftop terrace where you can enjoy fun cocktails and good vibes. Each floor has different offerings, so you can work your way up over the course of a couple of hours.

Travel tip #3: In my opinion, Getsemani has better food options than Old Town in the Walled City; I found that prices are a bit less expensive and the vibe is a lot more laidback. More families and groups seem to eat in the Walled City, which shifts the culinary experience a bit depending on the restaurant.

Transportation & Accommodation

Many travelers will arrive in Cartagena via plane at Rafael Núñez International Airport, which offers both domestic and international flights. It is a smaller airport, making it easier to navigate, and is a short drive from the Walled City. If you opt to catch a taxi, you must ask the driver how much they will charge before getting into the vehicle or they will more than likely rip you off. I paid approximately 25,000 COP in January 2024, which is approximately $6 USD, for a 20-minute journey to Getsemani. Uber prices were about the same. This price might fluctuate during different times of the day, but generally anything over 35,000 COP would be considered expensive.

If you are staying in Getsemani or the Walled City, it is really easy to get around Cartagena on foot. Many places of interest, restaurants, and bars can be accessed within a 20-minute walk. Renting a bicycle is common amongst tourists, but be sure to lock it up if leaving to enter a building. To get to other parts of Cartagena, like Bazurto Market, you can take Transcaribe. This is a public transportation system that opened in 2016. It is meant to function similar to a subway with lanes and stations designed especially for the buses through El Centro and main areas of the city. It is a form of cheap transportation in Cartagena that locals use often. The buses and stations can get quite full (and you get to see people basically act like cattle getting on and off) at rush hour, yet the buses are quite comfortable and even have air conditioning. You need a tap card to use the system.

There are many different types of accommodation in Cartagena: from high-end luxury spots to entire apartments through sites like AirBnb to nice hostels. I stayed in Getsemani at Los Patios Hostel because of the price and location. It was extremely clean and the staff were so, so friendly and helpful! They offered free bachata and salsa classes throughout the week on their rooftop (bar and pool access included) alongside different tours and exchange opportunities. Definitely recommend Los Patios if you are a solo traveler in Cartagena!

Climate

Cartagena is classified as a tropical environment that is quite hot and humid throughout the year; the sparkling Caribbean Sea bestows warm humidity upon the city, which is especially noticeable during the rainy season (May through November). During the rainy season, October is typically the hottest month with the most rainfall. With little to no rain and slightly more comfortable weather due to increased winds, dry season is the most pleasant season to visit Cartagena. The drier weather from December to April coincides with Cartagena’s high season, which is between mid-December and mid-January. Fun fact: the city receives an average of 2,520 sunshine hours per year!

Travel tip #4: It is recommended that travelers stay in either the Walled City or Getsemani due to safety and ease of exploring Cartagena. However, because of the high number of tourists, locals tend to inflate prices for everything. It is common for tourists to heavily overpay for bottled water, street food, and more. Be wary of scams, too, especially if you are using taxis instead of Ubers.