Kamakura

Kamakura

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Kamakura is famous for being a historical and religious center in Japan. The city has a tranquil atmosphere partly due to its location on Japan’s eastern coast and its abundance of lush vegetation. This combination of ocean and greenery makes Kamakura a wonderful escape from the bustling areas of Tokyo and Yokohama, as well as a fantastic place for temple and shrine hopping.

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Hime Ajisai at Meigetsu-in.

Places of Interest

Hase-dera: Hase-dera Temple, also called Hase-Kannon, is one of the most popular Buddhist temples in the Kanto area. It is famous for its huge eleven-headed statue of Kannon, which is over 9 meters tall and is carved from the same wood as a similar sacred statue in Nara. In early summer, Hase-dera is packed with Japanese and foreign tourists alike because of its beautiful ajisai garden. Ajisai are the symbol of rainy season in Japan, and Hase-dera delivers with more than 2,500 of these vibrant flowers.

Kotoku-in: Kotoku-in is famous for Daibustu—the Giant Buddha of Kamakura—a magnificent bronze 11.4 meter-tall statue. It is the second tallest Buddha statue in Japan, the first being at Todaiji Temple in Nara. The statue was originally housed inside the temple buildings, but overtime various typhoons and tsunamis destroyed the buildings. Eventually the statue was placed outside and has been since around 1500.

Meigetsu-in: “Meigetsu” literally translates to “bright moon.” It is home to several rabbits, as there is a Japanese folktale about a rabbit pounding a rice cake on the moon. However, the temple is also commonly referred to as Ajisaidera, its gardens mainly feature Hime Ajisai (“Princess Hydrangea”).

Komachi Street: Komachi Street is a 2-minute walk from Kamakura Station and is known as a popular shopping area. Other than clothing, kimono, tea, and souvenir shops, there are also a variety of food shops selling tons of delicious things from rice crackers to fluffy pancakes to matcha ice cream. You could spend hours wandering in and out of the shops while sampling all of the delicious food on Komachi Street.

Hokokuji Temple: From the outside, Hokokuji doesn’t look too appealing, but it is best known for its beautiful bamboo grove behind the temple’s main hall. These bamboo stalks are dark green and incredibly tall. A small pathway leads through the bamboo to a tea house, too.

Tsurugaoka Hachimangu: Known as Kamakura’s most important shrine, Tsurugaoka Hachimangu can be reached using a pathway that stretches from the sea to the shrine itself. In addition to the shrine, there are two small ponds. In the summer, the lotus bloom out of the water, creating an absolutely beautiful scene.

Zeniarai Benten Shrine: This popular shrine sits atop a small hill and is dedicated to Benten, a Buddhist goddess associated with snakes. People visit to wash their money, as it is said that whatever money is washed in the shrine’s waters will double. Zeniarai Benten is about a 25 minute walk from Kamakura Station. Read about how to wash your money here!

Travel tip #1: Kamakura is a major tourist destination due to its unique cultural history, as well as proximity to Tokyo. However, ajisai (hydrangea) season—typically June through July—is one of Kamakura’s peak tourist times, as there are several prime spots for ajisai viewing sprinkled throughout the city. Hase-dera and Meigetsu-in are wonderful and feature beautiful ajisai gardens, but anticipate lengthy waits and crowds, especially on weekends.

Food

Princess Kinako: In Japanese, “kinako” means mushroom, making the name of this little shop “Princess Mushroom.” It’s a little hard to find, as the shop is located down a side street off of Komachi Street. They specialize in deep-fried shiitake mushrooms along with other deep-fried foods, and only serve a few select items each day. I was amazed by the quality and flavor—absolutely delicious!

Vegetarian bun: When wandering around Hase-dera, be sure to purchase a vegetarian steamed bun (“yasai-man”). They’re stuffed with a savory veggie filling that includes water-chestnuts, mushrooms, and carrot, amongst others. It’s the perfect snack to enjoy at the temple.

Purple sweet potato croquette: Another shop that specializes in deep-fried goodness also sits along Komachi Street. From the street, you’ll notice the signs for their croquette. The most popular is the beef and potato, while the second is purple sweet potato. Although I didn’t try their #1 seller, the purple sweet potato croquette was delicious—not too oily, plenty of crispy panko, and tasty sweet potato filling.

Kintsuba: Throughout Kamakura, you’ll see these small shops selling wrapped squares that look like soap bars. They are not soap bars, but rather Japanese sweets called “kintsuba.” Kintsuba are made from sweetened bean paste squares. One side of the square is dipped into a very light batter and this side is baked on a flat grill. This process is repeated until all sides are covered. These sweets are not very sweet at all, but compliment tea very well.

Mameya: Literally translating to “bean shop,” Mameya is an original Kamakura store that sells a variety of Japanese snacks made with beans. There are crunchy, salty rice crackers stuffed with crispy beans, and also sweet-coated beans. You can sample many of their snacks in the storefront before purchasing some to take home.

Jacoyaki: Takoyaki is Osaka’s famous food that has octopus (“tako”) inside fluffy, gooey dumplings. While takoyaki is made with octopus, jacoyaki is made with tiny baby anchovies, referred to as “shirasu.” In the dumpling ball itself are these little fish—a Kamkaura speciality—and then they are topped with more deep-fried tiny fish, special sauce, and Japanese mayonnaise.

Purple sweet potato + matcha soft cream: I have not seen this combination anywhere else in Japan, and it is so yummy! The sweet, toasty flavor from the purple sweet potato balances the slightly bitter matcha. Both flavors compliment the soft serve’s creaminess, leaving you in complete bliss.

Travel tip #2: Shirasu generally refers to small whitefish, specifically young Japanese anchovy, Japanese sardine, and herring. Shirasu are caught in the ocean near Kamakura, and are featured on many menus throughout the city, as the city is famous for them.

Transportation & Accommodation

Kamakura is relatively easy to access and navigate. From Tokyo and Yokohama, simply take the local JR line to Kamakura Station. Some temples and Komachi Street are in walking distance from there. If you’re looking to go to the Enoshima area of Kamakura, you can board the Enoshima Electric Railway (also referred to as “Enoden”)anywhere between Fujisawa to Kamakura Station. This small, special railway connects popular stops throughout the coastal area of Kamakura.

Other than trains, there are several bus lines that connect more popular temples and sites to Kamakura Station. They come quite frequently throughout the day, but walking or taking the train is usually the easier option if your Japanese isn’t too good or you don’t have a transportation app handy.

Kamakura’s scenic ocean views come at a high price. If you are looking for more affordable accommodation, book further away from the Enoshima area. In addition, Kamakura is easily accessible from Yokohama, making it possible to use Yokohama as your base and take the train in and out of Kamakura.

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View from the Enoshima Railway.

Travel tip #3: The Enoshima Railway is a private and relatively small that connects Fujisawa and and Kamakura Station. Due to its short route, each train has only a few cars. During peak tourist times, expect the trains to be quite crowded.

Climate

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Statues at Hase-dera.

Kamakura is generally mild throughout the year, with July and August being the hottest months. June is the wettest month, but there is consistent rain from March through October. If rain isn’t your thing, try to visit in December or January. However, it can get quite chilly along the coast in the winter months, so dress appropriately.

This travel guide is based on travels from August 2018 and information has not been updated since that time. Some businesses may not be in operation or information may have changed since the creation of this guide.