Hakone
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Hakone is the perfect getaway in the mountains of Japan. The city is nestled in the valleys and ridges of Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, and is filled with onsen (hot springs), nature, museums, and serenity. Hakone is a popular weekend destination for many in the Tokyo region, as it’s relatively close to the city.
Travel tip #1: Hakone is a mountain town and sits at a higher altitude than nearby cities of Yokohama and Tokyo. It gets cold after dark even during the summer, so bringing a light jacket and layers is recommended.
Places of Interest
Hakone Yumoto Station: A few stops inland from Odawara Station is Hakone Yumoto Station. This is the entrance to the Hakone area and has an abundance of shops, restaurants, onsen, hotels, and hostels. The main street outside of the station is lined with cafes and souvenir shops, which are open throughout the day.
Hakone Open-Air Museum: If you love art and sculptures, this is the museum to visit. Spread out over rolling hills in the mountains, the Open-Air Museum hosts a collection of quirky and eclectic art pieces made by international artists. Some art is interactive, but most are simply for looking at. My personal favorites were the two sunny side-up eggs and the mosaic glass tower. If you have the Hakone Free Pass, you can receive 200 JPY off museum admission.
Suzuhiro Kamaboko Village: For over 150 years, Suzuhiro Kamaboko has been making delicious kamaboko (fish cake) and seafood products using fresh and local ingredients. You can sample various types of kamaboko, eat at several cafes, purchase gifts to take home, visit the Hakone Brewery, and even make your own kamaboko. If you would like to take the class to make your own, you should make reservations in advance.
Lake Ashi: This magnificent lake was formed in Mount Hakone’s caldera 3,000 years ago. Now, Lake Ashi is the renounced symbol of Hakone, and on a clear day you can see Mount Fuji in the background. The lake’s shores are mostly undeveloped and boast scenic, natural views. There are cruises from one side of the lake to the other on days with good weather, which take about 30 minutes in total.
Hakone Ropeway: The Hakone Ropeway transports visitors from Sounzan Station to Togendai Station, with stops in between. In the middle is Owakudani, which is home to rising volcanic gases, black eggs, and sulphuric fumes. The Ropeway is a popular attraction and one of the best ways to experience different parts of Hakone.
Owakudani: This active volcanic valley is also known as “Jigokudani” (Valley of Hell). While on the Hakone Ropeway, you pass over rising volcanic gases from the valley below. The smell definitely reminds you that you’re in an active volcanic area, and the steam coming from natural vents adds to the experience. There are shops and places to eat in Owakudani, as well as several hiking trails.
Hakone Forest Adventure Park: Forest Adventure is a company with locations throughout Japan. Visitors can participate in a treetop obstacle and zip lining course that takes approximately two hours to complete. The Hakone location is a 10 minute walk uphill from Hakone Yumoto Station, or just a short bus ride away. I recommend making reservations beforehand on their website and presenting the Hakone Free Pass when checking in to receive a small discount.
Yunessun Spa Resort: This infamous spa theme park is unique to Japan and is great for families. There are various types of hot spring baths: coffee, sake, wine, collagen, outdoor, and more. Unlike most onsen, guests wear bathing suits. However, there is a more traditional area where you strip down to enjoy the baths (these are gender separated). If you go after 3 pm and present a coupon, you can enter both the bathing suit spa park and “naked area” for only 2,500 JPY. Prices, hours, and details can be found online.
Travel tip #2: A majority of the places of interests listed above close around 5 pm. This includes The Ropeway, which stops operating after 5 pm. It is best to start your day in Hakone early to ensure you squeeze everything in that you wish.
Food
Manju: Similar to Atami and other areas with onsen, manju is a popular red bean treat. The manju is steamed in wooden boxes using the water from the onsen. These make perfect snacks while wandering the streets of Hakone and are great souvenirs to bring home.
Black egg: Legend has it that eating one of these eggs will add seven years to your life! The eggs, also known as “kuro-tamago,” are hardboiled at 80 degrees Celsius for 60 minutes in natural spring water. Then, steamed at 100 degrees Celsius for 15 minutes in steel baskets. The water they’re boiled in contains sulfur and iron, giving the eggs their signature black color. 5 eggs cost 500 JPY (~$4.50 USD) and are perfect for sharing amongst friends.
The Gyoza Center: The Gyoza Center specializes in gyoza, which are Japanese dumplings. The restaurant is located within walking distance from both Gora Station and Chokokunomori Station. Although the building was under construction as of September 2018, they are still serving up delicious gyoza. I tried the Hakone Gyoza and Kimchi Gyoza, and really loved their flavorful kimchi gyoza.
Nisshin Tei Honten: Down an alley near Hakone Yumoto Station, you’ll find this small restaurant specializing in Japanese and Chinese cuisine. They are known for their delicious handmade noodles, which are added to many of their ramens and noodle soups—the savory and spicy noodle soup I had was amazing! The serving sizes are generous, too. Happy hour runs from 5-7 pm with half off all drinks.
Kamaboko cake: This dessert isn’t made with fish cake, but rather fruit, nuts, and green tea and is shaped like traditional kamaboko (a half-circle). It can be purchased from the cafe in the back left corner of the Suzuhiro Market. They also serve different fruit tarts, chiffon cake, fresh fruit juices, and sweets. While enjoying your food, you can watch the trains roll by.
Soft cream: Soft cream (soft serve ice cream) is insanely popular throughout Japan. Different cities and areas often serve different flavors. At Owakudani, you can choose from traditional vanilla or green tea, but egg and black vanilla are the area’s two special flavors. The egg soft cream is similar to a custard flavor, while the black vanilla is literally black!
Hakone Beer: At Suzuhiro Kamaboko Village, you cannot just sample and purchase kamaboko, but also drink some delicious craft beer at the Hakone Brewery. Their beer is brewed with Hakone spring water, giving it a crisp and refreshing taste. They make seasonal local brews to compliment the changing seasons in Hakone, too.
Travel tip #3: It is best to eat dinner early, as many restaurants close for the day around 8 pm. There are several izakayas and a handful of places that stay open later, but they tend to be crowded and difficult to find.
Transportation & Accommodation
If you are staying in Hakone for two or three days, the Hakone Free Pass is a great transportation option. The Hakone Free Pass covers various forms of transportation around the area and provides discounts at certain museums, attractions, and restaurants. I purchased the two-day pass at Odawara Station for 4,000 JPY (three-day passes are 4,500 JPY) and actively used it over the span of both days. The pass granted unlimited usage of the Hakone Tozan Railway, covered all fare on Hakone Tozan buses, covered the cablecar ride, paid for the entire Hakone Ropeway journey, and was able to be used on the boat ride across Lake Ashi from Togendai to Hakonemachi-ko! Additionally, the pass gave me discounts at several places I visited. It made my day easier because I didn’t have to purchase separate tickets for the different attractions, too. More information on the different types of the Hakone Free Pass can be found here.
Although public transportation is usually slower and takes more planning than driving, utilizing the systems in Hakone may make your trip much easier. The Hakone Tozan Railway stops near a majority of museums and places of interest, while the buses connect main hubs to more remote attractions. The region is pretty easy to navigate via public transportation, and there are staff throughout the city that are there to help if necessary.
Ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) are common in Hakone, as well as onsen resorts and hotels. If you’re looking for something more luxurious and private, one of the previous options is better. However, there are hostels and guesthouses sprinkled throughout the city, too. While in Hakone, I stayed at K’s Hostel Hakone, which is part of a chain of hostels in Japan. I stayed in a mix dormitory tatami room where we slept on futons. The common area outside the sleeping area was large and had a beautiful view of the city below. Downstairs was a complete kitchen, as well as a big common area with games, books, couches, a television, and an outdoor patio. The entire facility was impeccably clean, and even had an outdoor onsen that was open until 2:30 am every night. The only negative about the hostel was its location: about 20 minutes by foot away from Hakone Yumoto Station and on a hill. Even though buses did run to and from the hostel, services stopped around 7:00 pm. I recommend staying here if you’re okay with hills, as the service and facilities were awesome.
Travel tip #4: Book ahead of time if you’re planning to stay in Hakone on a weekend or holiday. As its reputation as a resort town, accommodation prices climb during peak season and on holidays, so it’s best to ensure you have a place to stay by booking early. If you use Booking.com, you can cancel reservations at most places free of charge if plans change.
Climate
Hakone has four distinct seasons and receives a pretty high amount of precipitation throughout the year. The wettest months are June and September, which also means that there is more cloud cover during these times and it is difficult to catch a view of Mount Fuji. Generally, November through March are the best times to visit Hakone if you want to see snowcapped Mount Fuji in the distance due to clear skies. It does snow in Hakone, so appropriate clothing should be packed if you’re visiting in the winter months. Mild and more favorable weather is typically experienced in October, November, and March.