Montréal
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Montréal is the largest city in Canada’s French-influenced province of Québec. It is named after Mount Royal, the stunning triple-peaked hill at the city’s center. The city itself is located on the largest island of the Hochelaga Archipelago off of the Saint Lawrence River; nine bridges of various sizes and designs connect Montréal to the surrounding areas.
Morning in Montréal
For those who require, or simply enjoy, starting their day with a cup of coffee, there are countless places to choose from in Montréal. Le Brûloir, Saison des pluies, Ferlucci, and Zab Café are several options, although, coffee nearly anywhere in this European-esque city will help you begin the day with your best (caffeinated) foot forward.
From coffee, walk along the streets and seek out a bagel, bread, or pastry shop. In contrast to New York City where bagels are boiled in mineral-dense NYC water, Montréal style bagels are boiled in honey and water. This results in the bagels having an overall subtle yet sweeter taste. They’re cooked in wood-fired ovens after being boiled, giving them a deeper and crunchier crust, as well. Appearance wise, they are thinner and smaller than a New York style bagel while still retaining the feeling of being doughy and dense. St-Viateur Bagel has been handmaking its famous Montréal bagels since 1957 and is popular amongst locals and tourists alike while Fairmount Bagel is an excellent alternative. If bagels aren’t your thing, find a local bread bakery, such as Boulangerie Les Co’Pains d’Abord, or pastry shop, like Pâtisserie Rhubarbe or Pâtisserie Au Kouign Amann, for more variety when selecting a tasty morning treat.
If you’re seeking a more substantial meal to keep you going throughout the afternoon, opt for brunch. Even though Montréal is better known for its nightlife spaces than it’s breakfast and brunch spots, there are quite a few lovely places. Arthurs Nosh Bar is a Jewish establishment that serves plates such as latkes, Moroccan toast with poached eggs, and flavorful chickpeas with sides of tahini. Their brunch menu is only available on weekends yet they sandwiches and breakfast items are available throughout the week. For a spot that’s a bit more upscale, Bar George at the Mount Stephen Hotel is a must. The stunning 300-year-old stained glass windows and gold fixtures complement their duck confit hash and lobster benedict to a T. You can always poke around Jean Talon Market, too, and find something to eat as you wander. This is one of the largest open-air public markets in North America that features an impressive selection of fresh and local produce in addition to specialty products from regional artisans, farmers, and bakers.
Afternoon Activities
This historic city combines European culture with a North American way of life. From museums to green spaces to artsy places, this city offers an eclectic mix of appealing activities. For example, you’ll find superb restaurants of all kinds as well as trendy bars in Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal). Here, the city’s architecture and cobbled streets have been retained, keeping its original look dating back to 1642. It’s easy to get to from Downtown whether you’re walking or taking public transit, which makes this neighborhood popular amongst visitors. The beautiful historic buildings can be appreciated on foot as you take in a glimpse of the history and culture while passing through Place d’Armes. You can explore Notre Dame Basilica, one Montréal’s hundreds of churches yet with the most exquisite interior, complete with a gold star studded vaulted ceiling and stained-glass windows. Old Montréal’s southern boundary is Vieux-Port (Old Port), a waterfront promenade that lines the river, which is not far from Rue Saint Paul. This pedestrian-friendly walking street is lined with shops, bistros, bars, and art galleries.
Mount Royal Park is a popular destination on a sunny spring or fall day for its manicured walking/ hiking trails and panoramic view. It’s a lovely spot for a leisurely walk yet the lookout is what attracts most visitors. From atop on a clear day, you can see the entire city all the way to the Saint Lawrence River. It can take between thirty to ninety minutes to hike Mount Royal based on your starting point, pace, and chosen trail. At the foot of Mount Royal lies Plateau-Mont-Royal, which is often considered the area of choice for French newcomers but many people frequent this vibrant and friendly area for its charming bookstores, tasty bakeries, chic boutiques, and fun restaurants and cafes. Nearby the Plateau is the Mile End neighborhood, where you’ll find plenty of cozy cafes, conceptual boutiques, and culturally-informed restaurants, as well. If you start your journey at the stairs of the Romeo Museum, you can enjoy a free Street Art Exhibition. Then, take a walk along busy Saint-Laurent Boulevard.
Travel tip: Many people in Montréal are bilingual or even multilingual, which makes it easier to communicate with locals if you only speak English. You’ll notice that their French slightly differs from the French spoken in France, as Québécois French is derived from the French spoken in Paris during the 17th and 18th centuries. During that time, Europeans were colonizing the Americas and French royals sent Parisians to live in “la Nouvelle France” (modern-day Québec). This version of French proliferated throughout French Canada, influencing Québécois French to this day.
Winding Down in Style
After a day out and about in Montréal, it’ll be good to wind down with a delicious meal alongside some kickass drinks. Montréal’s top notch food scene owes as much of its reverence to its mix of diverse immigrant culture and francophone roots. As it’s culinary scene has developed over the decades, dishes such as poutine (Chez Ma Tante, Maamm Bolduc & Chez Claudette are all great places), smoked meat sandwiches (Schwartz’s Deli is popular), and bagels (see above) remain common must-try items. Aside from traditional French Canadian and French cuisine that can be found in Montréal, however, the diversity of Middle Eastern cuisine spans multiple regions, styles, and traditions. From casual chain eateries like Beba to the Lebanese Daou to the fusion of Syrian and Armenian cuisines at Alep and Le Petit Alep, there is no shortage of variety within this city. Choosing a spot for dinner is quite challenging, but once you narrow it down to the type of cuisine you desire and price range you will be all good.
If you’re wanting to have dinner and drinks, wine bars are an excellent choice when in Montréal. Le Rouge Gorge‘s classy marble-topped bars and white-painted brick walls complement owner Alain Rochard’s wine selection quite well. As a vintner from southern France, he knows what he’s doing and the food paired with each specific glass is carefully curated. Loïc, a former bank in Saint-Henri, has a lovely green terrace and a list piled high with natural wines; this is a great spot on a summer evening to split a bottle with some friends. Le Majestique closes during the wee hours of the morning (3 am) but thankfully serves amazing food as the night progresses. The food is fun yet incredible while the wine selection is an impressive selection that is mostly privately imported from small, artisanal producers. For a more casual vibe with beer and cocktail options, the Sir Winston Churchill Pub, Bar Courcelle, and Cloakroom Bar are laidback spots.
A day or weekend in Montréal can be easily filled with relaxing strolls, yummy food, and historic sites. It’s the perfect alternative from American cities like New York City or Boston, especially if you’re craving somewhere a little more chic that’s just a stone’s throw away.
Peace & happy travels,
Tay xx