Two Different Vibes within Puntarenas
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Puntarenas Province is one of the most important tourism regions in Costa Rica thanks to its rich Pacific coastline that is full of islands, inlets, beaches, and wildlife. Tourists flock to this area every year to visit Manuel Antonio and Manuel Antonio National Park, with Quepos being known as the gateway to both and neighboring Dominical being popular for surfing, its beach, and the laidback atmosphere.
Did you know… that Costa Rica is politically and administratively divided into seven provinces: Alajuela, Cartago, Guanacaste, Heredia, Limon, Puntarenas, and San Jose? Each province, with its own abundant wildlife and unique climate zones, is then divided into cantons (81 in total) which are further divided into 470 districts.
Quepos: Connecting Puntarenas Province
Quepos is a coastal town that extends from the Damas to the Barú River. It is a good spot for sport fishing, offers a wide range of tourist services, and is a convenient port of call for travelers. Additionally, here is a bus terminal in Quepos that provides transportation to Manuel Antonio, Uvita, Dominical, Puntarenas, San José and Jacó. [For example, buses go to and from Manuel Antonio every 30 minutes starting at 5:45 am and then every hour after 7 pm. As of March 2023, a one-way bus trip between Quepos and Manuel Antonio costs 390 CRC (~$0.75 USD).] As a central location that connects many popular destinations within Puntarenas Province, many visitors find themselves spending at least half a day in Quepos and others frequently return for services.
As with most of Costa Rica, it is much more convenient to access places outside of Quepos’ downtown area by car or motorbike. For example, exploring natural spots like Portalón Waterfall or the Eco Hot Springs is much easier to do by car as they are in secluded locations off backroads. However, the Saturday Farmers’ Market, pier, Café Milagro, and Soda Sánchez are all within walking distance of one another if you’re in downtown Quepos. Cafe Milagro is a local micro roaster and coffee shop that was established in Quepos in 1994 while Soda Sánchez is a well-known traditional restaurant that serves typical Costa Rica fare. Koky’s and Cevichera El Rey are two restaurants that are located a bit outside of the town center yet they are definitely worth visiting. Cevichera El Rey serves several fresh ceviches made with local ingredients alongside of fried plantains; their tropical ceviche with mangos is a must-try! Koky’s is located up the road from Cevichera El Rey, towards San Lorenzo de Tarrazú, and specializes in roasted chicken. If you choose to grab food from Koky’s, you must order several hours ahead of time so they can source and prepare your meal.
Dominical: A Bohemian Paradise
South of Manuel Antonio lies other beachside towns, like Dominical and Uvita. Both of these beachside towns can be accessed via bus from Quepos (be sure to check the bus timetables and be there early, as the scheduled times are not exact!). Dominical is located 28 miles south of Quepos and is an off-the-beaten-path, laidback bohemian town with cafés, small restaurants, beaches, and camping areas. Café Mono Congo is a popular spot for brunch and overlooks the Barú River. They have great coffee that can be enjoyed while working in the open-concept space. Phat Noodle is a more upscale Asian-fusion restaurant known for its vibrancy while Fuego Brewery is a great place to sample local craft beers. If you follow Main Street, you’ll eventually reach Playa Dominical, where vendors and artisans can be found. This is a nice area to buy handcrafted gifts, as you’re directly supporting local artists. Many travelers choose to stay in Dominical because it is less touristy than Manuel Antonio and has a good amount of places to stay while still being fairly accessible to nearby towns and nature spots, like Nauyaca Waterfall and Alturas Wildlife Sanctuary.
Compared to Quepos, Dominical is not as well-connected in terms of roads, technology, and services. Phone service is not as strong here, similar to the Wi-Fi connection. In addition, there are only one or two ATMs off of the main road, which can cause issues for visitors if cash is necessary because Costa Rican ATMs are notorious for being unreliable. With this in mind, ensure that you have enough cash on hand before traveling to Dominical, especially if you are planning to stay in the area for more than a few days. Although these small aspects may deter some individuals, I think this really contributes to Dominical’s beachy vibe because you are less focused on technology and more focused on your surroundings!
There are dozens of interesting towns, places, and spaces to visit within Puntarenas Province… Quepos and Dominical are simply two I was able to experience during my time in Costa Rica. I encourage you to spend weeks or months in the country if you have the opportunity, as Costa Rica is a truly magical place.
Peace & pura vida,
Tay